The Binding Cloth Symbol in Most Ardently by Gabe Cole Novoa

The Binding Cloth: A Symbol of Hidden Identity and Secret Freedom in Most Ardently

by Gabe Cole Novoa

In Gabe Cole Novoa's Most Ardently, the binding cloth is far more than a practical undergarment. It is a central symbol of Oliver Bennet's hidden male identity, his struggle against a rigidly cis-heteronormative society, and the fleeting, secret freedom he finds when he can present himself as the boy he truly is. The cloth appears at key moments of transformation and crisis, its meaning shifting from a tool of concealment to a source of euphoria, and finally to a marker of the impossible distance between Oliver's inner self and the world's perception of him.

What Is the Binding Cloth?

The binding cloth is a custom-made chest flattener that Oliver uses to give himself the appearance of a flat chest. The novel describes it as a “flat corset-type material at the front with long fabric strips that wrapped around and pinned tight at the sides.” It was created with the help of his sister Jane, who is an excellent seamstress. The cloth is not a simple piece of fabric; it is a carefully engineered garment, designed to reshape Oliver's body into a silhouette that aligns with his identity. The text emphasizes the precision required to use it: Oliver learned to wrap it with “the exact tension needed to keep the cloth snug against his flattened chest without hugging his ribs too tightly.” This detail underscores that the cloth is not just a disguise but a deliberate, personal tool for self-actualization.

The cloth is part of a larger hidden wardrobe. Oliver keeps boy outfits in a locked trunk beneath his bed, hidden behind decoy trunks labeled with innocuous names like “books” and “trinkets.” He also stores clothes at his friend Charlotte Lewis's house, where he can change before going out during the day. The binding cloth is the most intimate and essential piece of this secret wardrobe—the one that directly addresses the source of Oliver's dysphoria.

Where the Binding Cloth Recurs

The binding cloth appears at pivotal moments throughout the narrative, each time marking a shift in Oliver's emotional state or circumstances.

• The Bartholomew Fair (Chapter 3): The first detailed description of the cloth occurs when Oliver prepares to attend the fair as himself. He changes at Charlotte's house, and the text notes that the binding cloth works “perfectly beneath his shirt to flatten his chest.” This is a moment of joy and anticipation, as Oliver looks in the mirror and beams, feeling “incredible.” The cloth is central to this transformation, enabling him to step out into the world as Oliver.

• The Nighttime Escape (Chapter 15): After a painful dream in which he swims with a flat chest, Oliver wakes and feels the “wrongness” of his body. He retrieves his hidden trunk and dresses in the dark, and the text describes how “the tension in his muscles easing as he tightened the flattener around his ribs, pushing his chest into the proper shape.” Here, the cloth is a source of immediate relief, a physical remedy for the dysphoria that overwhelms him. It allows him to leave the house and visit Avery's Tavern, a Molly House, where he can be himself among other queer people.

• The Nightmare (Chapter 22): The cloth's absence is just as significant as its presence. In a nightmare, Oliver is laced into a corset by his mother and Lady Catherine de Bourgh, who tighten it until he cannot breathe. The corset is the antithesis of the binding cloth—it is a garment imposed on him by others, designed to accentuate his chest and force him into a feminine shape. The nightmare highlights the cloth's role as a protective barrier against the world's attempts to define him.

• The Epilogue: While the binding cloth is not explicitly mentioned in the epilogue, the scene at the coffee house, where Oliver is welcomed as himself and kissed by Darcy, represents the culmination of the freedom the cloth has always symbolized. The cloth's purpose is fulfilled in a space where Oliver no longer needs to hide.

How the Binding Cloth's Meaning Changes

The binding cloth's meaning evolves over the course of the novel, reflecting Oliver's journey from concealment toward self-acceptance.

A Tool of Concealment

Initially, the cloth is primarily a tool of concealment. Oliver uses it to pass as a boy in public, but he is constantly aware of the risk of discovery. The text notes that he fears someone might notice “the very slight bump of his chest beneath his binding cloth.” In this phase, the cloth is a necessary deception, a way to survive in a society that would not accept him. It is also a source of anxiety, as Oliver worries that his secret could be exposed and ruin his family's reputation.

A Source of Euphoria

As Oliver becomes more comfortable in his identity, the cloth's meaning shifts. It becomes a source of euphoria and self-expression. When he dresses as himself, he feels “incredible” and his reflection is “absolutely thrilling.” The cloth is not just hiding something; it is revealing who Oliver truly is. This is most evident in the dream sequence, where Oliver imagines swimming without the cloth, feeling the water on his “bare skin of his flat chest.” The dream represents an ideal state where the cloth is no longer needed because his body already aligns with his soul. The cloth, in this context, is a stepping stone toward that ideal.

A Marker of Impossibility

The cloth also marks the limits of Oliver's freedom. Even when he is dressed as himself, he is aware that he is not truly free. He cannot be himself at home, cannot tell his family the truth, and cannot imagine a future where he can live openly. The cloth is a reminder of the gap between his inner self and the world's perception. In the nightmare, the corset—the cloth's opposite—represents the crushing weight of societal expectations. The cloth, by contrast, is a fragile, temporary solution to a problem that cannot be fully solved within the constraints of his world.

Character and Theme Connections

The binding cloth is deeply connected to the novel's central themes and characters.

Oliver Bennet

For Oliver, the cloth is an extension of his identity. It is the physical manifestation of his internal truth. The novel's theme of identity concealment and the double life is embodied in the cloth, which allows Oliver to maintain two separate existences: the public “Elizabeth” and the private Oliver. The cloth is also central to the theme of gender dysphoria and self-expression. When Oliver wears the cloth, he experiences relief from the dysphoria that plagues him in women's clothing. The cloth is not a cure, but it is a vital coping mechanism.

Jane Bennet

Jane is the only family member who knows Oliver's secret and actively supports him. She helped create the binding cloth, and her sewing skills are essential to its function. Jane's role in making the cloth symbolizes her acceptance of Oliver's identity. She calls him her “little brother” and encourages him to be himself, even when it is risky. The cloth is a tangible product of their bond and Jane's love.

Fitzwilliam Darcy

Darcy's relationship with Oliver is complicated by the cloth. When Darcy first meets Oliver at the Meryton Ball, he sees “Elizabeth” and dismisses him as “tolerable but not handsome enough.” Later, at the Bartholomew Fair, Darcy meets Oliver as a boy and is drawn to him. The cloth enables this second meeting, allowing Darcy to see Oliver's true self. The cloth thus becomes a symbol of the possibility of being seen and loved for who one truly is.

Themes of Marriage and Family

The cloth also connects to the novel's theme of marriage as coercion and economic necessity. Oliver's mother, Mrs. Bennet, is obsessed with marrying off her daughters to secure their futures. The cloth is a rejection of this system, as Oliver refuses to play the role of a marriageable daughter. The cloth is also tied to the theme of family acceptance and rejection. Oliver fears his mother's rejection, and the cloth is a symbol of the secret he must keep from her. Finally, the cloth is connected to the theme of queer community and safe spaces. When Oliver wears the cloth to Avery's Tavern, he enters a space where he can be himself among other queer people. The cloth is the key that unlocks this community.

Study Questions and Answers

1. How does the binding cloth function as a symbol of both concealment and self-expression?

The binding cloth is paradoxical: it conceals Oliver's chest, but it reveals his true identity. When Oliver wears the cloth, he is hiding a part of his body that causes him dysphoria, but he is also expressing his authentic self. The cloth allows him to present as a boy, which is who he truly is. In this way, the cloth is not just a disguise but a tool for self-actualization. It conceals the physical evidence of his assigned sex at birth, but it reveals his internal truth.

2. What is the significance of Jane helping to create the binding cloth?

Jane's role in creating the cloth is deeply significant. It shows that she accepts Oliver's identity and is willing to actively support him, even in secret. The cloth is a product of their sibling bond, and it symbolizes Jane's love and understanding. Unlike their mother, who tries to force Oliver into a feminine mold, Jane helps him become who he truly is. The cloth is a tangible expression of Jane's belief in Oliver.

3. How does the binding cloth contrast with the corset in Oliver's nightmare?

The corset in Oliver's nightmare is the antithesis of the binding cloth. The corset is imposed on Oliver by his mother and Lady Catherine, who tighten it until he cannot breathe. It is designed to accentuate his chest and force him into a feminine silhouette. The binding cloth, by contrast, is Oliver's own creation, designed to flatten his chest and help him feel comfortable in his body. The nightmare highlights the violence of societal expectations, while the cloth represents Oliver's resistance to those expectations.

4. How does the binding cloth relate to the novel's theme of queer community and safe spaces?

The binding cloth is essential to Oliver's ability to access queer spaces like Avery's Tavern. When he wears the cloth, he can pass as a boy and enter these spaces without fear of discovery. The cloth is thus a key to the queer community and safe spaces that Oliver finds in the novel. It allows him to be himself among others who understand him, and it represents the possibility of a life where he does not have to hide. The cloth is a symbol of the freedom that comes from finding a community where one can be authentic.

Conclusion

The binding cloth in Most Ardently is a powerful symbol of Oliver Bennet's hidden identity and his struggle for self-expression. It is a practical tool that enables him to navigate a hostile world, but it is also a deeply personal object that represents his hopes, fears, and dreams. Through the cloth, the novel explores themes of concealment, dysphoria, family, and community. It is a reminder that even in the most restrictive circumstances, there is always a way to hold onto one's true self. For Oliver, the cloth is not just a piece of fabric; it is a lifeline.