4: Leaves of Gas, Grass, or Ass

⚠️ Spoiler Warning: This guide contains detailed spoilers for the entire novel. Proceed only if you've finished reading or are comfortable knowing the plot.

Summary

Roberson arrives in Denver after a week of driving across open plains, eager to explore a city romanticized by Beat writers. She stays with her childhood friend Molly, now a mother living near the mountains. Roberson visits Sputnik for a vegan breakfast and the flagship REI store, where she buys a cheap foam sleeping pad. She contrasts the Denver of the Beats—Kerouac’s Larimer Street and Ginsberg’s Howl—with the gentrified, millennial-driven Denver of 2019. The chapter then turns into a meditation on the American literary canon that inspired her road trip: Thoreau’s Walden, Whitman’s “Song of the Open Road,” Edward Abbey’s Desert Solitaire, and Kerouac’s On the Road. Roberson critiques Abbey’s misogyny and racism and notes that the Beat Generation’s freedom was largely unavailable to women, who were expected to support male artists rather than become adventurers themselves. She acknowledges that contemporary women like Cheryl Strayed and Elizabeth Gilbert have written celebrated travel memoirs, but often need a trauma narrative to justify their journeys. Leaving Denver, Roberson spots a referendum to decriminalize magic mushrooms and reflects on how the spirit of Kerouac still echoes in the many young people moving to Colorado for adventure. She heads toward Utah’s national parks.

Key Events

Roberson drives into Denver at night and meets her friend Molly for a two-night stay.
She eats a tofu scramble at Sputnik and shops at Denver’s massive REI store, buying a cheap foam sleeping pad.
She contrasts the Beat-era Denver of the 1950s with the rapidly gentrifying, millennial-focused Denver of 2019.
Roberson walks through the literary canon that shaped her trip: Thoreau, Whitman, Abbey, and Kerouac.
She critiques Edward Abbey’s writing as racist and misogynist, and finds his “I’m a weird guy” persona off-putting.
She discusses the gender limitations of the Beat Generation, citing Joyce Johnson’s Minor Characters and Annie Dillard’s journal.
Roberson acknowledges how much easier it is for women to travel in 2019 compared to the 1950s, but notes the lack of adventure narratives written by women that do not involve healing from trauma.
She departs Denver, spotting a magic mushroom decriminalization sticker, and heads for Utah’s national parks.

Character Development

Blythe Roberson continues to develop as a self-aware, critical traveler. She admits to feeling both nostalgia for Beat mythology and skepticism toward the commercialization of nature. Her visit to REI highlights her refusal to engage in consumerist outdoor culture, and her analysis of the literary canon reveals a growing political consciousness about gender and race in travel writing. She openly wrestles with her own privilege as a white woman who can travel safely.

Molly (Roberson’s childhood friend) is portrayed as a nature-lover who moved to Colorado to give her daughters the same outdoor experiences she enjoyed as a child. She serves as a grounding presence and a contrast to the author’s solitary journey.

Literary figures (Thoreau, Whitman, Kerouac, Abbey) are treated as characters in Roberson’s internal debate. She respects Thoreau and Whitman deeply, but challenges Abbey’s toxic masculinity and Kerouac’s exclusion of women.

Themes, Symbols, or Motifs

Gender and Adventure: The chapter argues that the canonical American road trip was largely a male pursuit. Women who traveled often needed a justification, while men could set off simply for freedom. Roberson wants more narratives where women travel without trauma as a premise.
Commercialization of Nature: REI is described as a “cathedral of nature-based spirituality” under capitalism. Roberson critiques the expensive gear that has become necessary in outdoor culture, as well as the Instagram-driven performance of nature.
The American Travel Canon: Thoreau, Whitman, Abbey, and Kerouac all represent different visions of freedom. Roberson examines their relevance and shortcomings for a modern, female traveler.
Gentrification and Change: Denver’s transformation from Beat hangout to millennial hub illustrates how cities evolve, often erasing the very counterculture that made them famous.

Why This Chapter Matters

This chapter is the intellectual heart of the book. It establishes Roberson’s critical lens on the American road trip tradition and her identity as a woman trying to claim that tradition for herself. By dissecting the works of Thoreau, Whitman, Abbey, and Kerouac, she sets up the central tension of the book: the desire for romantic freedom versus the reality of a landscape shaped by capitalism, privilege, and inequality. The chapter also directly addresses gender and race, making clear that the open road has never been equally open to all. Her departure for Utah signals a shift from urban reflection to wilderness encounter.

Study Questions and Answers

Why does Roberson argue that women have written fewer books about being free on the road?
Answer: She argues that society historically required women to marry and work in the home, denying them the freedom to pursue adventure. The Beat Generation peaked during the height of the male-breadwinner nuclear family, leaving women to support male artists rather than become artists themselves. Even contemporary women travel writers often need a trauma-healing narrative to justify their journeys.
What is Roberson’s critique of Edward Abbey’s writing?
Answer: She finds Abbey’s work racist and misogynist, and she dislikes his performative “I’m kind of a weird guy” persona. She also faults his views on population growth for sounding like eugenics. Though she appreciates his resistance to industrial tourism, his overall energy alienates her from outdoor culture rather than drawing her in.
How does Roberson contrast the Denver of the Beats with the Denver of 2019?
Answer: The dive bars where Beat writers hung out have been torn down or gentrified beyond recognition. Modern Denver is characterized by rapid population growth driven by millennials seeking affordable housing near public lands. Roberson notes that while the spirit of Kerouac may still live in those who move to Colorado for adventure, the city itself has become a hub of consumerism and tech culture.